Sign In Sign-Up

Welcome!

Close

Would you like to make this site your homepage? It's fast and easy...

Yes, Please make this my home page!

No Thanks

  Don't show this to me again.

Close

Introduction:
Late November 1996, I bought a good secondhand Land Rover Defender TDi. I equipped it  with camping gear, which took some time and of course a great deal of financing. I did have some equipment as Ronelle and I love camping, but not all the camping gear was suited for the rough outdoors. For weeks I've worked day and night to make ends meet.

Camping gear and 4x4 related equipment is not cheap, no matter what country you’re from. It is a specialized item and you pay for it dearly, even 2nd hand gear is expensive. Although there are many companies that sell various items, the item you want is not always available at the best price in the shop closest to you. It meant driving around town for small items at the best price. At this stage I am fairly well equipped for the rough outdoors of Southern Africa.

Day 1, 26th June
Target: Roodepoort via Martins Drift to Maun
At 02:00 Saturday morning the final item was loaded into the Landrover. I've tried to limit the unnecessary items but young boys are like young girls, all their "maybe I will need" items had to go along. I've tried my best to keep the load light but at the end of the day the Land Rover was packed heavily. The tent, a military trunk with some spare parts for the Land Rover and spotlights, 6 Jerry cans for fuel, a 60 liter water tank, a plastic tub with lid, which would serve a dual purpose as bath tub and washing machine, two gas bottles and the second spare wheel was on the roof.
In the back of the Land Rover there were four smaller trunks for the groceries, pots, pans and cutlery, also very important, cold drinks for the boys and beer for dad. The Engel fridge was mounted just behind the back seat for easy access. The bulk of sleeping bags, stretchers and bags with clothing were on top of the trunks. Everything was securely strapped down. The main reason for keeping the load light was for quick unloading at the evening stops along the road and easy access at meal times. Well, we will have to wait and see how effective my planning was.

We left Roodepoort filled with excitement as the highway took us towards the border between South Africa and Botswana. As a child I spent many holidays in the Waterberg area through we will travel towards the border post.

I planned to take the Pretoria - Pietersburg (N1- north) highway and then take the turn-off towards Nylstroom from where I would then head for the Martins Drift border post via Ellisras. Unfortunately I missed the turn-off and before I knew, I was near Potgietersrus. I made a hasty U-turn and took the old road back to Nylstroom. Had I studied the map then, I would have discovered that there was a road that would have taken me directly from Potgietersrus to Martins Drift border post. This unfortunate error cost me more than an hour.

We reached Ellisras after 7:00, refilled the fuel tank and made our way to Martins Drift. The map indicated a turn-off to the right at about 22 km outside Ellisras. Unfortunately the turn-off was not marked "Martins Drift", but "Swartwater". I thus continued along the road, passing many turn-offs to Swartwater. When the road started to turn south I knew we had missed the turn-off. I stopped to study the map and discovered that I should  have turned right towards Swartwater and then have taken a left turn towards the border. As that was several kilometers back, I continued along the current road towards Stockpoort border post.

At Stockpoort I met other holiday makers and I learnt from them that it is better to cross the border via smaller border posts. Crossing through any African border post, however, takes time…. African time! Botswana is in common customs area with South Africa, but is not included in the Common Monetary Area. This complicated the purchasing of food and fuel, and paying for accommodation. They do not accept payment in SA Rand, only in Pula. Fortunately I managed to exchange Rand for Pula a couple days before our departure, as there was no Foreign Exchange Bureau at the border post. After paying 4 Pula or R10 for a third party disk, we left the border without any problems.

The AA Map and the Shell Map of Veronica Roodt did not show the new roads in the area of Stockpoort. This once again slowed us down at road crossings as the roads were not signposted. Nevertheless, we managed to find the tar road to Francistown.

As it is against the law to import raw meat into Botswana, I needed to buy some meat. I had planned my route to pass below the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, via Serewo to Maun. According to my information, the only big town where I could buy any groceries, was Serewo. I was hoping to find a good butchery there. We passed several small villages along the road with typical open butcheries. My hope of finding a butchery like the ones back home, was dwindling.
At Palapye we turned left for Serewo and 41 km later we came across a Spar shop alongside the main road, well-stocked with groceries like any grocery shop in South Africa. The meat was well packed in thick plastic and it frozen hard. An hour later we resumed our trip.

The area we traveled through is very flat Kalahari sandveld but the tar road was in a good condition. Overgrazed pastures and the presence of goats and donkeys was a sure sign of a village nearby. There was no grass at all around the small villages but they were clean and most huts were made of wooden poles and had thatched roofs.

On the horizon appeared a high flat-topped mountain and as we got closer we discovered that it was in fact a huge gravel heap from the Orapa diamond mine. It was soon left far behind as we approached Rakops where the tar road ends. The sun was setting rapidly and my original plan to overnight near Maun became unrealistic. Plan B was to overnight at the Scouts Camp near Xhumaga in the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park.

We arrived after sunset at Xhumaga and found three roadsigns for the Scouts Camp, each pointing in a different direction. A local man pointed us in the right direction, and I managed to find my way to the campsite.

At 22:00 that evening we set up camp and lit the campfire. It was pure magic. The sounds of the African bush at night was so beautiful and the stars so clear that they were almost burning our eyes. Despite the "modern" ablutions there was no fire in the "donkey" for hot water and we promptly went to bed.

Day 2: 27th June
Target: Maun to Drotsky's Caves
The sun was already up when we got out of our dome tent. Two Game Rangers paid us a visit and reminded us to pass by the office when we leave. It seemed the ideal opportunity to cook a sumptuous breakfast with bacon and eggs sunny side up, but I discovered that the egg lifter was left behind! So Kellogg's had to suffice.

After breaking up camp we went past the office to pay for the night’s camping. Well, was I shocked when the Warden told me that the night's camping fee was 150 Pulas! Although I knew that all the Botswana National Parks were expensive, I found this outrageous. Their motto appears to be: High Income, Low Occupation. There and then I decided to stay far away from any National park. Otherwise, the Warden and staff were very friendly.

Close to 12:00 we reached Maun where we filled the diesel tank of the Landrover and the 6 Jerry cans. This would be our last fuelling point for the next 379 kilometers. The next fuel stop is at Etsha 6 and all the guidebooks warn about insufficient and irregular fuel supplies at Etsha 6. The only alternative fuel stop mentioned in the guides was at Bagani in the Caprivi, roughly 502 km from Maun on my planned route. Keeping in mind that fuel consumption of the Landrover could sky-rocket on very sandy terrain, I filled up the 140 liter tank and 120 liter Jerry cans. I would hate for us to be stranded without fuel in some remote area.

The fuel station at the outskirts of Maun was very modern and clean and while we were there, several groups of holiday makers in 4x4's visited the station. We left Maun for Drotsky's Cave and followed the road via Toteng, Sehithwa to the turn-off at Tsau.

Just outside Tsau one should turn left for Drotsky's. Veronica Roodt's Shell Map and info that I had at hand mention that it is a very small road. Fortunately the Shell map gave several GPS co-ordinates. According to my GPS, we had passed the turn-off. 100 meters on, I made a U-turn and found the road designated by a very small sign "Drotsky's Cave". I was surprised by the accuracy of the GPS and with Veronica's co-ordinates.

A few meters later, it became necessary to deflate the tyres as the two-spoor track was very sandy indeed. The track was very narrow, allowing only one vehicle. On either side of the track there was a 50 meter clearing. It seemed the track also formed some kind of a fire road. The veld was covered with grass and well-established trees and shrubs. This was genuine flat sandkalahari. Road conditions did not allow speed faster than 30 km/h.

Suddenly "No Entry" signs on both sides of the track appeared and a little sign "Xai Xai" showed the direction to the left. I consulted the Shell map and as no 90? turn to the right was indicated, I carried straight on.

The sun was setting fast and 10 km later the road ended at a road makers’ camp. The people there told me to return to the "No Entry" sign, take the road to Xai Xai and then take the turn-off to Drotsky's Cave. At the "No Entry" signs we stopped for a quick dinner while daylight was fading fast.

After dinner, with the help of spotlights on the roof of the Landy we followed the very narrow and winding detour. Branches were scratching the Landrover as we reached a crossing, which bore no signs. Where to now, I wondered and consulted the GPS. It showed that I had to head left, and so, I turned left.

A good few kilometers later, there was another bush camp on the left and the people there confirmed that I was on the right road. They said that approximately 500m further on I would find a signboard and a road turning left. 2,5km Later there was indeed a big sign welcoming you to the community of Xai Xai. It also mentioned the entrance fees per person (P10), per car (P10) and camping (P50) per day. I carried on and found another bush camp. Here a man advised me to continue along this "short-cut" to the caves, but at this stage I had no idea what our location was. The thought of another 90Pula in fees and the fact that I had no idea where we were, I decided to pull off the road and set up camp under a tree. It was already 23:00 and we were very tired indeed.
The boys decided to sleep inside the Landrover but I had no intention to sleep uncomfortably and slept outside on my stretcher. Although it was a bit chilly, we all had a good night’s sleep.

Day 3: 28th June
Target: Drotsky's Cave - Aha Hills
It was a great sunny, cloudless day and after a Kellogg's breakfast we were on our way to Drotsky's cave. The sandy road was very straight and slow and around 11 o'clock we saw a blackish hill to our left. The road made a 90? turn to the south and the hill was straight in front of us. We found ourselves in the middle of a valley with sandy hills covered with grass and shrubs.
As we approached, the hill became bigger, and looked more like a heap of black rocks. The road led us towards a small enclave between the foot of the hill on the left and some huge rocks on our right. Excitement stirred as we spotted some very dry elephant droppings as we approached the narrow passage. However, I was very aware of the absence of water along the road since we had left the main road. We were fantasizing about a sinkhole filled with water and game nearby.
Eventually we reached the caves, or rather the top entrance to the cave as the rusted sign informed us.

We parked the Land Rover underneath a thorn tree, collected our flashlights and spare batteries and followed the footpath to a rather huge cave entrance. Climbing down into the cave, we found a plastic container with pencils and notebook inside. It was the cave's diary. Some very interesting people have visited this remarkable cave, which was first explored by a European farmer, Martinus Drotsky, in the mid 1930's.

A thin rope was our only guide into the darkness of the cave. The floor was of very soft red dust, so we walked very carefully without upsetting the dust. Then the white stalactites and stalagmites caught the light of our flashlights. It was beautiful, most of them unspoiled and as we entered a rather huge chamber we saw hundreds of small bats hanging from the ceiling. There are several passages leading from the main passage but all of them are very short. Then the main passage came to an end at a rather deep pit. The thin rope made a loop and was tied to a rock high above the pit.

In our guidebooks and the cave's diary, it was mentioned that there is another entrance to the cave and that one could walk from the one to the other. We were faced with a gaping hole with a very high ceiling. As there appeared to be no fresh air circulating, we retraced our tracks.

We followed the road further till another sign informed us about an entrance to the cave. Once again we followed the thin rope which led us to a small hole. I crawled through and found myself high above the pit we had been confronted by before. So it is in fact possible to walk through the cave from one entrance to the other.

After lunch we climbed to the top of the hill and scanned the area around us with binoculars for a water hole or any signs of live. The vast emptiness surrounding us buried all hope of finding anything. Back at the Landrover it was decided to test our 12-volt shower pump as we were covered in red dust from the cave. As we seemed to be the only living beings at the cave, we showered in the open with the hot sun on our naked bodies. It was about 15:00 when we left the caves.

The road leaving the caves must have been the road Veronica described in her Shell Map because it was well traveled. We were heading for the old limestone and dolomite Aha Hills. The road went through a pan at the Nxainxai village as the sun set. We seemed we would sleep in the bush again as the tar road was many kilometers away and the road again very sandy. I decided to follow a well-used turn-off to see where it led us.

After a couple of turns in the road we saw the faint light of a paraffin lantern. As we approached, the scene before us was very appealing. Alongside a Unimog were a nicely laid dinner table and the welcoming light of the lantern. A young man approached us as I turned off the ignition. He informed me that we could not camp there as it was a private campsite reserved only for them (he did mention a company name) by agreement with the local headman. We turned around very disappointedly.

Back to the "main" road, we continued for another few kilometers, then pulled over and set up camp. This was our first night in the wild Botswana bush. The campfire was lit and soon we had a braai. It was around 23:00 when we laid our heads down. Hugo in the Land Rover, Pieter and I outside, covered with a tarpon sheet against the early morning dew.

Day 4: 29th June
Target: Aha Hills - Tsodilo Hills
We left our "next to the road camp" rather late in the morning. Unpacking and packing the back of the Land Rover was a bit time consuming, but we were on vacation and it did not really matter too much.

The sandy road was narrow and straight. Every once in a while we stopped and looked back at Aha Hills which was slowly growing smaller and smaller. The GPS indicated that our average speed was about 10 - 12 km/h. The sand was loose and the track very winding; so bouncing and bobbing we slowly made progress.

Suddenly the bushes next to the road was cut clear, about 50 meters either side and there were more tracks in the sand as the vehicles before me tried a different part of the sandy road. I managed to gain some speed on the edge of the road. The edge of the road was very deceptive and suddenly the left front wheel hit a shallow and the Land Rover swerved heavily to the left. It was a frightening experience as the Land Rover nearly rolled when we came to a sudden halt. That was a lesson well learnt! I never again tried to gain speed on an impossible road! At last the tar road was in sight. The sand road from Aha Hills was a rough and difficult 190km.

We were now heading for Etsha 6, a small village along the main road and the only village with a fuel pump. Closer to Etsha 6 the bushveld scene to the right changed to farming activities. Maize fields were fenced in by poles and cut branches to protect it from cattle and goats. We were hoping to catch a glimpse of the Okovango delta as the road on the map indicated that we were not far from the edge of the delta. Only tall palms indicated the presence of water on the horizon.
The fueling station at Etsha 6 was very busy. It provided petrol and diesel, but no water or air. Communication was a problem. We filled the Land Rover's tank, although the 6 jerry cans on the roof were still full. I was not sure where our next fuel stop would be.

Etsha 6 is like any small rural (platteland) town in Botswana, only the center bears evidence of some town planning, concentrated around the petrol station, police station, post office and a general store. But one thing that did impress us since we have entered Botswana, were the Government Schools. New buildings all painted in the same colour schemes, including hostels. The school property was neatly fenced. Another thing that also amazed me was the neatness of the villages; no plastic bags being blown by the wind, mounting against fences like we see in South Africa. The people of the rural areas of both South Africa and Botswana are very poor, but the South Africans show little regard for the environment unlike the Tswanas.

While we were waiting for our turn to fill up the Land Rover, the boys were searching for a water tap. Eventually a young man showed me the way to a very neatly built water tap area. The area around the tap is concrete and surrounded by a meter high brick wall. It was clean and the young man helped me to fill the water tank on the roof. I was rewarded with a big smile when I paid the young man with a cigarette and P5 for his help.

We were once again back to the main road, heading for Sepupa. The map shows three roads the map heading towards the Tsodilo Hills and originally planned to take the southern one, but at the petrol station at Etsha 6, one tourist told me that he heard that the bottom road is in a very bad condition and that I should take the turn-off 7 km before Sepupa which we did. The road was no better than the road to Drotsky's Cave; it was sandy and winding but I could easily manage a speed of 45 km/h. It was time for Pieter to get some experience and he drove for about 20 km.
Tsodilo Hills appear as very small humps on the. As the sun was setting we hit some very soft red sand between the back of the so-called Male and Female Hills. We stopped to collect some firewood. After the firewood was loaded on the roof, we continued till suddenly we found ourselves on top of a sand dune. The road down was very wide with several tracks and very sandy. We experienced no trouble as we descended. The Male Hill was on our right hand side and looked impressive as the last rays of the sun coloured the majestic cliffs in shades of pink and yellow. We followed Veronica's directions and found that, and her GPS coordinates to be very accurate. One problem I had with the other two guidebooks was that they advise one to ask permission of the Headman of the village to camp. Where do you find and how do you identify an African Headman? As far as I know, all men dress the same; headmen don't wear feathered headgear like the Red Indians of the Americas.

As it was already dark when we entered the small village, I stopped next to a hut where to woman were busy preparing for supper. They were very polite and friendly. They gave me the direction towards the Monument Office as mentioned in Veronica's tourist guide. There are no sign saying Monument Office but only Office. Just before the office there was a campsite on the left and I turned towards it. This was the first time we met fellow travelers. Two parties: two families and two hitchhikers. We were well received and informed that they had arrived the previous night. Apparently, they set up camp at the first campsite they came across, and later found that it was not the best site. They advised me to proceed straight ahead to the next fork in the road and then keep right. A little further on I will find a very cozy campsite, well protected from any wind by some high cliffs of the Female Hill and behind, some trees which protect form the slight breeze from the west. We thanked them for their advice and followed their directions. We soon came across the campsite as they described it.

After camp was set up, it was time for supper. We had very little for lunch and we were starving. That night I was going to try and cook some rice. Now that was only the second attempt in my life. The first was just after I got married 18 years ago with disastrous results: I cooked a cup of dry rice for each guest!

My wife decided that this time she would pack the rice into small portions, enough for the three of us. This time, I had a problem with the amount of water to cook with! As the rice started to swell, I slowly poured off some water but we still ended up eating soggy rice! No one complained, as we were very hungry.

What a great campsite it turned out to be! As the sun rose the next morning we discovered that our tent was pitched very close to some rock paintings of giraffe and elephants. It was a clear windless day with the most beautiful blue sky. It was silent. As we were having our breakfast, two geckos paid us a visit.

The previous night we passed the Office and after washing up, closing all the trunks, we drove down towards the Office. The man there was very friendly as I signed the guest book. There was no camping fees payable and he showed us the one and only water tap. He informed us of the several walking trails and said we should try the Lion Trail. He could not offer us a guide to accompany us. He normally keeps a supply of  trail maps but unfortunately was out of stock at that point in time.

We parked the Land Rover at the start of the Lion Trail, took our binoculars, cameras and water bottles and started the walk, following a well sign posted trail. Every now and again we found a numbered signpost directing us to some very interesting rock paintings.

I am familiar with the most common rock paintings of  South Africa, but we saw some very unfamiliar and strange paintings. Veronica does mention that the Tsodilo paintings are some of the very best preserved rock paintings in Africa. The paintings were very clear indeed. According to the guidebooks the name Tsodilo is derived from the Mbukushu word "sorile", meaning "sheer". The rock paintings and a wealth of archaeological remnants suggest that the area has been inhabited by ancestors of the present-day San (Bushmen) as far back as 35,000 years. Bantu sites in the area date back as early as 500AD and numerous flaked stone tools have been excavated. In addition, over 3500 individual outline style paintings at over 350 sites have been discovered and catalogued.

Although no date can be fixed for most of the rock paintings, it's clear that some were produced fairly recently - after 700AD. Interestingly, on the summit of the Female Hill are the remains of two Iron Age village sites, which date from between the sixth and 11th centuries. Most of the rock paintings are red in colour but some are also done in white paint. Evidence suggests that it was painted by the Mbukushu people since the early 1800s. This assumption is derived from the degree of preservation and their depiction of cattle.

I only discovered much later, that one of the guidebooks showed a map of the trails and some indication where one could find certain rock paintings. It was a rather small map. Veronica’s tourist guide was recently reprinted for the third time and is the best available map by far.

We spent all day walking around the Female Hill and only arrived back at our campsite after 15:00. We had a quick lunch and drove towards the Baby Hill, which was further from the Female than the Male Hill. We drove alongside the cliffs of the Female Hill when I remembered reading about the natural well, which holds water all year round and is close to the start of the Cliff Trail. We found a very deep sand campsite close to the start of the Cliff Trail and decided to try and find this well. We followed the sandy trail to the bottom of the cliffs. Velvet monkeys welcomed us and we were sure that the well must be close. The map indicated that it is situated at the foot of the cliffs, but we could not find it and decided to rather continue our drive to the Baby Hill. The Baby is quite a distance from the Female Hill and the thick red sand track snaked through golden grass fields. The setting sun was telling us to turn around. On our way back we passed the "well campsite" and as there was about 45minutes of sunlight left we tried once more to find the well.
We followed the trail once more until it starts to go up a narrow passage to the top. The boys wanted to do some rockclimbing and we went ahead. Not 5 minutes later we found the well or rather smelled the well. This amazing natural cistern in the rock grotto has held water year round for as long as anyone can remember. The San believe that this natural tank is inhabited by a great serpent with twisted horns, and that visitors should warn the occupant of their approach by tossing a small rock into the water.

With 30 minutes of daylight left we decided to continue climbing for 15 minutes. We made it to the top and it was worth the speedy climb. The view was magnificent as the sun set on the horizon. It was a pity we had to return, but we had no flashlight and there was no moon to guide us down the cliffs. We reached the Landrover as daylight faded into dusk. To our surprise the Landrover would not start! The main battery was dead. Fortunately we had a second battery supply for the fridge and we jump-started the Landrover. This was the first of a couple of problems we encountered with the battery and alternator. The plan was to investigate when we reached the campsite but the engine was too hot and I we had to prepare supper. As the driving lights seemed to have no problem on the way back to the campsite, I assumed the alternator was functioning normally.
After a very nice meal it was time for a real bath. Although we did leave three filled solar bags in the sun to warm the water earlier, the water cooled down very rapidly and I had to boil water on the gas stove. We used the red plastic tub as a bath. The tub was too small for me, a tight fit for Pieter and perfect for Hugo. It was great fun. This was the tub that was also intended as a washing machine. The idea was to put the washing into the tub with water and washing power, close the lid and then tie the tub securely to the roof rack. As we drive during the day it will act as a washing machine and by lunchtime we would empty out the dirty water, add clean water to rinse and on arrival at the campsite in the evening, hang up to dry.

The kids went to bed and I enjoyed my percolated coffee by the fireside. Whether or not you believe in the spirits that seem to gravitate towards ancient lands, the Tsodilo Hills cast a powerful spell. These lonely chunks of rock rise abruptly from a rippled, ocean-like expanse of desert and are imbued with myth, legend and spiritual significance for both the Makoko and San, as well as the recently arrived Mbukushu and me. I will return.

Day 5: 30th June
Target: Tsodilo Hills - Grootfontein
After breaking up camp we went to the office to fill up the water containers. There we learnt that they are building a museum to house some of the artifacts of the Iron Age and certainly in the near future they will start to charge daily and camping fees. I asked for directions for Shakawe and said good bye.

I thought that the road leaving Tsodilo would be as extremely sandy as the road we came along, but it was not. Although it should be a main road, it was very narrow and bumpy and I had to pull over on the side of the road to make way for two local vehicles that passed by. It took us 4 hours to reach the tar road at the Somchima cordon fence; a distance of only 36km!

We inflated the tyres for travelling on the tar road and we headed for Shakawe. This village had a very "modern" look: several brick buildings and a big military camp. It was suggested that I buy fresh bread from the local bakery, which turned out to be a small hut with clay ovens behind it. The bread tasted great. But the main attraction was the water edge of the delta. Shakawe is next to the delta, which was a great sight after several days of dust and flat dry countryside. I do not recall seeing any petrol stations and we headed for the border post at Mohembo.

Mohembo border post is the most modern, spacious border post I've ever passed through in Africa so far: new buildings, with separate entrance and exit doors to the offices. The parking area was well designed and paved. Customs were quick and we drove through to the Namibia border post. What a big contrast: very small building and we did all the paperwork outside underneath a shade cloth. The customs officer sits next to you while you fill in the vehicle books and other documentation. We only had to go inside the building for a stamp in our passports and we left.
The main road from the border is very wide and made of white clay and passes through the Mahango Game Reserve. The speed limit is 60 km/h but several government and parks vehicles passed us at very high speeds. The guidebooks said that this park is well stocked with animals, but we saw nothing, perhaps because the road runs along the edge of the park and carries too much traffic.

We arrived at Popa Falls around 13:00. We had to pay entrance fee to see the falls. I was rather disappointed in the so-called falls, as the falls were nothing but very shallow rapids in the Okovango River. The camping sites seemed very nice with modern ablutions.
The original idea was to camp the night in Ethosha but once we reached the main road from Katima Mulilo and Rundu we realised that the distance was more than 671km and not enough time to reach the camp before the gates closed. At the T-junction there is a very modern petrol station as we turned left for Rundu.

We traveled well on the tar road and with a slight breeze from the back we made good progress. Rundu is a small but very busy modern town where we bought cold drinks and beer. We visited the very empty butchery but left with some dry and braaiwors. I still had not found an egg lifter.
Along the roadside before and after Rundu there are several stalls selling woodcraft but I resisted the temptation to stop, as I knew I did not budget for it. The road to Grootfontein is very straight and one has to be alert and very careful because of all the cattle and donkeys along the roadside sometimes wandering onto the road surface.

We arrived in Grootfontein just after sunset and set up camp in a very nice municipality caravan park. After a hot shower we enquired about restaurant facilities. It appeared that Grootfontein has only one restaurant in town. We had a superb dinner, far superior to my own cooking.

Day 6 & 7: 1st & 2nd July
Target: Grootfontein - Etosha
After breaking up camp and packing the Landrover we headed for the central business Centre of Grootfontein. There are several shops, like back home but no big Hyperamas. After having stocked up our supplies we were on the road again.

One of two interesting places on our route was the meteorite on the farm Hoba, 25km northeast of Otavi. The boys were looking forward to see the world's largest meteorite. No one knows when Hoba meteorite fell to the earth, but since it weighs in at around 54,000 kg, it must have been a hell of a thump. It's cubic in shape - which is rare for meteorites - suggesting that it broke up during impact and that perhaps more bits are awaiting discovery. Since this site has been declared a national monument, entrance fees are payable at a very interesting kiosk.

We returned to the Grootfontein / Tsumeb road. We passed Tsumeb, which was a real pity as this town has a great mining museum, but our time was limited and I wanted to reach Etosha as early as possible as I made no advance reservation. On our way we passed several heavily loaded 4x4’s and I was concerned that the camps could be fully booked.

The other interesting site we visited along the road was Lake Otjikoto, which lies next to the main road. The lake is an enormous sinkhole measuring 100 by 150m. The depth has never been determined and some locals maintain that it is bottomless. Also of interest is the fact that Lake Otjikoto and nearby Lake Guinas are the only natural lakes in Namibia. Although Lake Otjikoto was once a free roadside stop, an enterprising local has now put up bathroom facilities and a curio shop, and fenced it with a chain link fence. Although admission is charged, it remains a welcome and interesting stop.

We arrived at the Von Lindequist Gate at Etosha where a very friendly lady asked us for our reservation papers. My fears were realised when she told me that many groups of tourists came to Etosha without reservations. She advised us to proceed to Namutoni.

The Von Lindequist Gate is about 12km from Fort Namutoni and the speed limit is 60km/h on a good tar road. We reached the white painted fort in no time and headed straight for the reception office. The reception office is very impressive and modern and situated just outside the entrance to the fort. The fort itself houses only accommodation. We were disappointed to learn that there was no campsite available at Fort Namutoni. When she phoned Halali, the reply came that there were a few camping sites available, but it can not be reserved. We had to take the chance.
We paid a visit to the inside of Fort Namutoni after some relief at reception. Fort Namutoni was opened to tourists in 1958, and is, after Okaukuejo, the second oldest camp in Etosha. The Fort was declared a national monument in 1950. In one of the watchtowers is a small museum portraying the history and surroundings of Fort Namutoni.

Due north of the fort, close to the fence, lies Namutoni fountain, a bowl shaped limestone fountain in a marshy environment with tall reeds, which used to be a drinking place for cattle. The outside world came to know about it for the first time in 1851 when the explorers Anderson and Galton camped in the area. In 1870, a group of Thristland Trekkers also stopped here.

The first fortification, completed in 1903, was put to the test in the following year when the fort was attacked by the Owambo. The garrison of seven defended the fort against about 500 Owambo until late in the afternoon when their attackers retreated. Just after sunset the garrison slipped away, their ammunition having run out, and reached the safety of the farm Sandhup, and later Grootfontein. The next day the fort was plundered and razed to the ground. With the possibility of two nights in Etosha we headed for Halali and this time did not take any turn-offs or visited any water holes.

The Etosha National Park is firmly entrenched on the world map of international parks and visited annually by tens of thousands of tourists from Namibia, South Africa and abroad. Its attraction lies not only in the variety of game that it offers, but also in its unique landscape. The great white expanse, with shimmering mirages and the interesting diversity of tree and shrubs, set it apart from other parks in Africa. The Park takes its name from the Etosha Pan, the great white place of dry water, an extensive, flat depression of about 5000 sq. kilometers that lies towards the east of the park.

We saw Zebra, Springbok, Impala, Blue Wildebeest and even Elephant on the way to Halali. The gravel roads are very dusty, but soon we went through the gates of Halali. Accommodation turned out not to be a problem after all as only the campsites with electricity were fully booked. I was pleasantly surprised that the entrance and camping fees were far less than in Botswana. Just before sunset, we set up camp and unloaded the Landrover. We went for a sunset drive towards the pan but spotted no more game than along the road from Namutoni.

Halali was opened in 1967 and lies halfway between Okaukuejo and Namutoni. The word "halali" is derived from a bugle call made to announce the end of the hunt. In the earlier years the bugle was sounded when the gates of the camp were about to shut for the night. Sadly, the sound of a bugle is no longer to be heard.

The only hills in the game park open to tourists are at Halali. The German Schutztruppe operated a heliograph station on one of the hills to send messages to Okaukuejo and Namutoni. The Helio waterhole at the foot of the hill, got its name from this station. When we were there, the waterhole was dry.

At sunset, the camp was a hive of activity as fellow campers were preparing supper. For the first time we saw the backpacker trucks with several foreigners traveling along with it, a cheaper way to explore Africa. By the time we got to the bathrooms, there was no hot water and all the shower roses were gone from the showers. We did what we had to do in cold water!

Every camp in the Etosha has a waterhole nearby which is floodlit at night. After having phoned home for the first time, to inform Ronelle that we were well and enjoying ourselves, we went for a walk to the water hole. There was not a living creature to be seen and we promptly went to sleep.
Day 7: The next day, 2nd of July, was Pieter's birthday and we spent the whole day driving sightseeing. We visited several water holes, saw many giraffes and hyenas.

On the edges of the huge white pan we saw white dust on the horizon. That meant a wind was coming up over the pan and I hoped that it would not reach us, which it did not. As the sun was setting we returned to Halali.

I tried to cook a special dinner for Pieter's birthday. My second attempt at cooking rice was more successful although it lacked some salt. After dessert we strolled to the waterhole again. This time we were lucky as three Black Rhino entertained the crowd. We went back to the tent for a well-deserved sleep. Pieter was very restless because he did not manage to get hold of his girlfriend by telephone and was sad about it. Later he went back to the waterhole and saw a hyena. Eventually he too went to sleep.

It was great to be back in Halali since my first visit in 1979. I was doing my National Military Service in Windhoek at the time and later also freelanced as a photographer and darkroom assistant for a Namibia newspaper, Die Republikein, The editor entertained me for a weekend in Etosha. In those days Etosha was not open throughout the year and we visited it as it opened for the winter season. I was a very excited  21year old youngster, took several pictures and on our return, the editor asked me to compile my first two page story about Etosha for the following weekend edition. It was at the Helio water hole nearby - then full of water - where I took my first picture of an Etosha Elephant. The return to Etosha brought back many great memories.

Day 8: 3rd of July
Target: Etosha - Kaokoland
We left Halali early in the morning after a quick breakfast. We had some difficulties with the gas cylinder. I suspected that it was empty. I had not seen any signs at either Namutoni or Halali of a gas refill service. We would have to try at Okaukuejo rest camp.

Our goal was to pay a visit to the famous Fairy-Tale forest, past Okaukuejo camp. I hadn't had the pleasure in 1979 to visit this fascinating site and while we had some time available we followed the dusty 38 km road to the far western side of Etosha.

This unique forest covers an area of approximately 1 square kilometer. The fairy-tale tree is found in Namibia only, and occurs from the Naukluft in the South to the Kaokoland in the North. The trees usually only grow on the slopes of mountains and hills and their trunks are fairly smooth and upright. What makes the Fairy-tale Forest in Etosha unique is that the trunks of the trees are particularly knobbly. It is also the only place where the trees grow in such numbers on the open plains. The Bushmen described them as upside-down trees, since they believed the trees were thrown out of paradise and landed upside-down.

From the Fairy-Tale Forest (also referred to as Ghost Forest) we followed the road over the flat open plains to a contact fountain, which lies on the edge of the pan, the Okondeka water hole. A great herd of Blue Wildebeest paid a visit as well as 10 giraffes. On our way back to Okaukuejo we were amazed to see so many giraffes on the open plains heading for the water hole at Okondeka.
We arrived at Okaukuejo, the main administrative camp of Etosha. We were delighted to see how well stocked the shop at Okaukuejo was, as we needed to buy supplies for our trip out into Kaokoland where there are no shops. Amongst other necessities, we bought frozen meat.
We also managed to refill the gas cylinder at the petrol station in the camp. We decided to have a late lunch in the caravan park. It turned out rather unpleasant as the wind started to blow and everything was covered in dust. After lunch we visited the waterhole where Springbok and Giraffe were drinking. As I was about to take a photograph of the waterhole, I noticed that the lightmeter of the camera was not working. No, not now! We crossed our fingers as we rushed back to the shop. Luck was on my side, as I bought the last two batteries from the shelf. Relieved, we left Okaukuejo for the Anderson Gate.

Our journey to the Kaokoland has started. After the Anderson Gate we traveled on the tar road towards Outjo but later took a gravel road, which was a short cut towards Kamanjab. Unfortunately the road was in bad condition and negotiating it at night even worse. After several dusty kilometers we reached a T-junction and turned right onto a tarred road towards the little town of Kamanjab.

We drove through Kamanjab towards Ruacana. The gravel road was in a good condition but the long day’s driving was taking its toll. We were exhausted. When the Land Rover's driving lights also became increasingly dim, I realised we couldn’t go on for much longer. Along the road there are farm fences on both sides, which meant that we could not drive a few meters in to the veld to camp. Then a kraal on the left with a loading ramp close to the road appeared. I pulled off and parked the Landrover next to the loading ramp. Pieter noticed that the Land Rover's reverse light was not working, but we were too tired to be concerned. It would have to wait ‘tilll morning.
The boys went to search for some firewood while I did the off-loading. There was a chilly breeze but the loading ramp gave some protection. We had tomato soup and went to sleep without the usual canned fruit with custard; Pieter inside the Land Rover and Hugo and myself out in the open under the stars. Two cars passed before I fell asleep.

Day 9: 4th of July
Target: Ruacana & Kunene River: The Kaokoland Trail
A cattle truck passing by woke me. It was just after 07:00 in the morning. I lit the gas plate for hot coffee, woke the boys and started to do some investigations regarding the flat main battery. All the wires seemed to be fine, we poured water over the alternator and hoped that during the day's drive it will charge the battery.

Then the reverse light was inspected. On opening the fuse box I found that the fuse was blown and replaced it, but it blue again immediately. There seemed to be a short somewhere. The toolbox was located underneath the fridge, but we managed to lift it out reasonably easily. The globes of the reverse and brake lights seemed to be in perfect working order. I wanted to inspect the wiring underneath at the back end of the Land Rover, which meant I had to lie down on the ground. As the ground was covered by huge thorns I decided against it. I was not too concerned about the brakelights not working as we were just about the only vehicle on the road.

I've read so much about the Kaokoland in magazines, which was the main reason why I wanted to visit this very remote part of Namibia. But there is very little information about the various roads and the magazines focused more on organized tours, advertising various touring companies. I considered joining a self-drive tour, but could not afford the high cost. What is more, the price is not inclusive of fuel and drinks. The various guidebooks didn't much cater for self-drive touring, they concentrated more on the hitchhiker and touring companies. However, both the magazines and guidebooks agreed on one bit of advice: Kaokoland is very remote and one should not travel around on one’s own.

Prior to the tour, I had searched unsuccessfully for information on the Web. Then the local bookstore was my next stop where I bought a book written by a Namibian about the Kaokoland. It had a detailed itinerary for the tour I wanted to do but also lacked some information regarding other places I wanted to visit. I based my itinerary on Jan Joubert's "4x4 Practical Guide". There was unfortunately not enough time to put my plan down to paper. Before we left home, I had packed a bag with all the maps and guide books and somehow Jan's book was not included! His book was vital because he had a map with GPS coordinates of the route I was going to follow and now I was lost. I had to follow the track and rely on the Shell Map of  The Kaokoland, which had no GPS coordinates (Veronica was not the author of this map) but had rather detailed roads and distances.

All the magazines and Jan's book start their Kaokoland trip from Opuwo, the central town of Kaokoland. From Opuwo the trail heads for Epupa falls but excludes the trail along the Kunene from Ruacana to Epupa falls. I wanted to drive along the Kunene River.

As we left our overnight stop I was still not sure whether I should follow Jan's route via Opuwo or go via Ruacana. Part of this tour was also for educational purposes, to teach the boys as much as possible about nature and it's diversities and the various cultures. The only hydro- electrical site in the Kunene River is at Ruacana, one of three hydro-electrical plants in Southern Africa. I was hoping that we could see some of the plant, if we decided to go via Ruacana. Turning left after 196 km from Kamanjab on the road towards Opuwo and when we reached the turn-off, I was still not sure which route to take.

It seemed I was no the only one as we came across a Landrover Defender and a Toyota Prado with trailers parked beside the road at the turn-off. The men had maps in their hands and I could see that they were unsure which route to take. I didn't stop to talk to them, but made the decision to take the route via Ruacana. The road was straight and very white.

As we drove on, I had one worrying thought at the back of my mind: was I carrying enough diesel? Ruacana was apparently not an entirely reliable fuel stop. Negotiating rocky passes and deep sandy tracks in low range, could be a very thirsty experience for the Land Rover indeed. Most of the guidebooks and touring reports  advised that one should carry enough fuel for at least 800km, as there are no petrol stations in the Greater Kaokoland. As I am not going to drive the published tours only but adding my own to it, I was not sure I will have enough fuel with me. The only petrol stations for the starting point and along the route are at Kamanjab, we've passed, Opuwo - not reliable and not on my route, and Ruacana - also not reliable and on my route. They all advised that you should know your vehicle's fuel consumption for these remote, sometimes rocky passes and deep sandy tracks. Low range driving could be a very thirsty experience. It was my first outing in my "new" Land Rover and I did not know it's fuel consumption in the bush. It was a worry thought.

I asked Pieter to do some calculations from Okaukuejo (Etosha) were we had last filled up. At that stage the main tank held 120lt and the jerry cans on the roof also 120lt. I knew that I could do 850km on the main tank but that was on tar roads only.

According to our calculations, we would be able to cover a distance of approximately 1160km with the diesel we were carrying at that point in time. The main shortcoming of all the maps I had was that distances was not always indicated on all trails, so we had to be prepared for the unforeseen extra kilometers. Pieter said that we had done 378km since leaving Etosha and Ruacana is still 162km ahead of us. A total 540km's, that left me fuel for another 310km in the main tank plus the 120lt on the roof. I would be able to do approximately 1160km range. The main problem with all available maps, not all distances are indicated which is a problem and you had to make provision for unseen able distances. The petrol station at the end of our Kaokoland tour would hopefully be at Sesfontein but is not mentioned in all guidebooks. If there were no diesel available at Sesfontein, the next stop would be at Uis. This was indeed very far from where we found ourselves at that stage!

I asked Pieter to study the guidebooks again and we came to the conclusion that Ruacana was our only hope. The atmosphere in the Landrover grew tense as we held thumbs for reliable fuel supply.

Information on traveling around Europe and the USA may be rather constant but in Africa, editors of guidebooks do have a real problem as reference points change and information sometimes change overnight. We experienced this when we came across the brand new, modern fuel station, not indicated in any guidebook, as we entered Namibia. We sighed with relief when we found a modern petrol station, with a kiosk and take-away shop at Ruacana. We celebrated the occasion with hot dogs as we left Ruacana for the lookout point over the hydro-electric plant in the Kunene.

We could not see much of the hydro-electric plant, as the best part of it is built underground. We did however see the dam wall far away. The barbed wire fencing surrounding the lookout point and the "No Entry" signs everywhere reminded us that we were very close to the Angolan border. I had visions of us being attacked by soldiers armed with AK47 rifles. This was certainly a very sensitive target if there ever was any! We left rather hurriedly.

We traveled downhill towards Hippo Pools, a campsite next to the Kunene, a short distance from the lookout point. We wanted to wet our feet in the nearby Kunene so we turned towards the gate. We had to pay N$15 for 15 minutes' visit at the river! The camping area will properly be a good place to overnight as it was clean, spacious and had long-drop toilets.

Leaving Hippo Pools, our real expedition started. As we crossed the bridge over a dry river close to Hippo Pools there was a road sign "Epupa Falls 75 km"; not too far.

Situated in the remote, northwestern corner of Namibia, the Skeleton Coast and Kaokoland are among the most intriguing and untouched wilderness areas of Africa. Together with Damaraland, they form an ecological unit generally known as the Kaokoland and these areas have become the destination for the more discerning tourist.

The northern border is the Kunene River, which is also the border between Namibia and Angola. The main road between Kamanjab and Ruacana forms the eastern border, the Skeleton Cost National Park the western border and the Huab River near Palmwag, the southern border.
The Kaokoland is the home of the Himba people, a tribe of semi-nomadic, many of whom still live and dress according to ancient traditions. It is also the stamping ground of the endangered desert adapted elephant and black rhino, features that in recent years have captured the imagination and interest of anthropologists, conservationists and travelers.

The tar road ended at the bridge and a wide gravel road went up the hill. On the other side of the hill the wide gravel road changed into a narrow two spoor track. Up and down over rocky terrain we followed the track; not too difficult. Every now and then we noticed a sign indicating the distance to the Kunene Lodge, an overnight stop and also a lodge for backpackers and safari operators. I did not plan to stay at any organized lodges, but intended to overnight in the bush along the river. We passed Kunene Lodge and a sign told us that the Epupa Falls were still 50 km ahead. As the sun started to set, I decided to set up camp before the sun sets and soon found a great spot close to the river.

The boys discovered a shallow pool on the banks of the river and decided to take a swim. We all read about the crocodiles of the Kunene so I sat on a high rock scanning the low rapids for crocs. Fortunately, there was nothing but horses feeding in the shallow water on the Angolan side. As the sun set, we lit the campfire, the air was warm and we decided against pitching the tent. For the first time we all slept underneath the stars. It was silent, apart from the sound of water at the rapids nearby. We were alone. We had passed or seen no other vehicles since leaving Hippo Pools. We counted several shooting stars in the crystal clear night sky and soon fell asleep.

Day 10: 5th of July
Target: On the Kaokoland Trail to Epupa Falls
It was a pleasant morning and after breakfast we approached our first steep rough hill. We experienced no trouble as the Land Rover is equipped with an additional diff lock on the rear axle (back home after this trip I discovered the pressure pump was not connected to the rear axle!). The going was rough as we past the left turn-off to Swartbooisdrift and on the right hand-side was a lodge, or what remained of it. Shortly thereafter we came across the grave of a headman, showed our respect and continued our trail. We passed a "military camp" typical army tents and personnel setting up camp. I was suddenly very concerned, what is the Military doing here? Later at Epupa I learned that the Government and the Military of Namibia are providing tent schools for the people of the Kunene!

Just as we were approaching another steep hill a fellow tourist came to the road and stopped us. He was a German and wanted to know if we had seen other people on the trail. He was expecting a friend to join him. Apparently his friend is a medical doctor and they had traveled together. Close to Ruacana there had been an accident where the doctor had stayed behind to attend to the injured people. Unfortunately my answer was negative.

We continued and got over the hill without any problemsand soon we passed our friends in the white Land Rover and Toyota Prado with their heavily loaded trailers. I took my hat of to them, as it must have been difficult with the trailers over the rough trail.

At one intersection I took the left road and soon stopped at the edge of a river. There was some water in the river with deep vehicle tracks and on the other side the sandbank seemed steep loose sand. I did not inspect the firmness of the riverbed and decided to make a U-turn and follow an alternative trail hoping that it would eventually cross the river at a more suitable place.

We passed a Himba settlement on the right and came to a dead stop at the edge of the river - there was no way I would cross the river there without the backup of a second vehicle! I consulted my map and noticed that I might be on the alternative road, away from the river as there were two roads to Epupa, one following the Kunene river and the other one closer to the mountain which later joins the D3700 or C43 to Epupa. Turning around once again we came across the Land Rover and Prado heading for the wet river crossing. We stopped, introduced ourselves and discovered that we were all from the same hometown!

They had a copy of Jan Joubert's map of the trail and informed me that we were indeed on the alternative road as the road along the Kunene was in a terrible state. They did not want to travel over such rough terrain with their trailers. We proceeded to the wet river crossing, inspected it and found the bed to be firm. After having deflated the tyres, I crossed first. I managed without a problem although the sand on the other side was loose. The white V8 Land Rover crossed next, as it was equipped with a winch in case the Prado, which was towing the heavier trailer, needed a winch to cross the sandbank. The Prado did get stuck but it was not necessary to use the winch, as there were plenty of dead tree branches to pack underneath the wheels to get him out. We enjoyed a well-deserved cold beer. The road from there was easy and without any problems we joined the C34 towards Epupa. This road, the main road, was very corrugated but we arrived about 21:00 at the main campsite at the falls. The camp seemed to be full but we found a very nice spot on the bank of the Kunene, above the falls. The tent was pitched quickly as we were very tired and it was just after 22:00 when we went to bed.

Day 11: 6th of July
Epupa Falls
The boys were up as the sun was rose over the Kunene. It was a wonderful sight and the top of the famous waterfall was about ten meters from our tent. Kids tend to inspect the campsite quickly and soon reported that there was a flushing toilet and a shower close to our tent but the shower only had a cold tap!

After breakfast we inspected the falls. It was great and soon we followed the river up to a huge sandbank where we took off our clothes and swam in the cold waters of Epupa.

We returned to the campsite for lunch and noticed that only us Roodepoorters were left in the camp. Some Himba women came by selling bread. After lunch I took a stroll to the nearby Himba village and noticed three more camping areas. However the one owner I chatted to informed me that the facilities were more expensive as they provide a sit down dinner for guests and hot water showers, catering mainly for backpackers and trucking travelers.

As the sun was set, we made a fire next to the river for a braai when a group of 6 vehicles pulled in. Some of them were from the Free State and Cape province, others were from Namibia. Unfortunately they were very noisy travelers. They emptied one bottle of Brandy after the other and were up until deep into the night. They rose the next morning before the sun rose and made sure everyone else in the camp was awake as well. We started to pack up and continue our journey to Vanzylspass.

Day 12: 7th July
To Otjinungwa via Vanzylspass and Marienfluss
We left Epupa after 09:00, an hour after the noisy group but on our way to Otjianjasemo we were behind them. They were driving extremely slowly and would not make way for me to pass. Eventually the road was wide enough to pass them safely while they were giving me rude signs. A very young person was the driver of the leading vehicle, which caused the slow moving convoy. The others were probably still under the influence of the previous night's festivities.

I was taking a calculated risk going down Vanzylspass on my own, but the owner of the private camp at Epupa informed me that in his opinion it was possible. He warned me that it would probably take me a full day to reach the summit. The road to Vanzylspass was not too bad so I pushed ahead and reached the summit at sunset. Although the view over the Marienfluss was breathtaking, the sun was dead ahead and driving was difficult. If I ever returned, I would do only half the route, sleep over and then hopefully reach the summit by midday. At one or two places the going was tough as we slowly descended to the Namib Desert.

From the top of Vanzylspass the road is very steep, but not too difficult except for the last approximately 400m to the valley, where there is a 90 degree turn which could be the reason why one should not attempt to go up the pass. Towing a trailer may present a problem.

As the last rays of sunlight lingered over the valley, we passed several "Fairy Circles" on our way to the campsite at Otjinungwa. Fairy Circles are circles of red sand surrounded yellow grass. The road was terribly corrugated as we proceeded slowly to the campsite next to the Kunene. We lit a fire, prepared dinner and soon went to sleep under an old Anna tree.

Day 13: 8th July
Purros via Orupembe and Rooi Drom
The following morning we did some sightseeing around the campsite. There is a shower, a toilet and community site where one should pay camping fees. As we were about to leave three motorcycles arrived. They were students from Cape Town and Johannesburg. They asked me if I could help them with some petrol, as their resources were very low. I understood their concern, but could not help (unless motorcycles ran on diesel!).

On our way to Rooi Drom, we passed a truck. Some men already removed the radiator from the front and were patching it with lead. I offered them some water but being locals they said that they were quite accustomed to leaking radiators and carried plenty of water on the back of the truck.
The scenery is great and we stopped at the Red Drum for photos. The road then took us closer to the dunes but they were not as impressive as the surrounding scenery. We saw some Ostrich and Gemsbok on our way.

The sun started to set and we had no idea how far Purros was. The boys were not interested in sleeping in the open again and a road sign came up indicating "luxurious camping" 5km ahead. "Yes" said the boys, "That's where we are going to camp tonight!" 5 km Passed without any sign of a campsite. Later another sign said "Camping Ahead" and we turned onto the road to the campsite. It was quite sandy and bumpy but there was a faint electrical light at the end of the road, the Office. "The camp is full" said the tall black man unceremoniously and we sadly turned around following another sand track, through the river bed passing some dry Elephant droppings!
We drove a further 5km away from Purros, turned off the road and set up camp among some sparse bush.

Day 14: 9th July
Purros and up river then to Sesfontein via Amsfoort
The next morning we went back to the "Office" to buy some cool drinks and beer at a very inflated price of N$6 per tin! On inquiring about elephant sightings, the black man informed us that we should drive up river, as there had been some sightings. Excitedly we took to the sandy riverbed. As I had not budgeted for this extra detour as far as fuel and time was concerned, we had to give up the search after only one hour.

We saw no Elephant but a stuck Toyota and a Land Rover trying to pull it out. One needs some basic knowledge about recovery before going into the Bundu and these people obviously had no knowledge whatsoever! I only stopped long enough to give them some advice and left them to it. In the rearview mirror I noticed that they succeeded at last. Getting stuck along the way is part of the adventure!

Time was running out and we had to continue our journey to Amsfoort and left Purros taking the road to Sesfontein. The turnoff to Amsfoort was somewhere in the riverbed at Purros. I had the co-ordinates for it and when we reached the GPS co-ordinates, there was no turn-off to be seen. We were delighted to have spotted three Giraffe under a big Anna tree! Giraffes in the desert!! What an unexpected surprise. We found a faint road at last, leading into the riverbed and followed it.

The next GPS co-ordinate I had was for Amsfoort and the GPS were complaining that we are heading for the wrong direction! You just can not follow the GPS as you wish due to roads but I was concerned that we were heading north and not south! I said to the boys that according to the map we should only head north for a short while then a turn to the west for a short while then to southern direction. If the road doesn't turn to the west in the next 10km, I will make a U-turn and take the main road to Sesfontein.

The next GPS co-ordinate I had was for Amsfoort, but we seemed to be heading in directly the opposite direction. I was considering turning around, but decided to continue for another 10km before doing so. At last the road turned to the west and finally south. I sighed with relief and could observe the beautiful country around me. On our right were the dunes of the Skeleton Coast Park while behind us lay blue mountains. One day, I would like to return and explore those mountains on the horizon.

Shortly  the road did turn as we wanted it to turn and at the southern turn, as we looked to the north was the mountains, or sunken riverbed in the horison. To the west and close by the dunes of Skeleton Coast National Park.

The road that followed was in a good condition and we made some good progress as we came closer to Hoanib River, Amsfoort. The scene at Amsfoort is magnificent as you look up to the high sandbanks of this old river. But there is no sign that you've actually reached Amsfoort. There were tracks al over the sand which made it difficult to decide which track to follow.

We followed a track along and into the river towards the Skeleton border where a sign informed us not to continue. We had lunch at the signboard and noticed the light to the west has become dimmer. We assumed that a sandstorm was approaching, because the wind was blowing unpleasantly during our quick lunch break. We went back to Amsfoort and turned south into the riverbed towards Sesfontein. Shortly after the turn we came across our first Desert Elephant! What a sight! These Elephants are slightly smaller than those of the Kruger National Park and the ivory smaller but still a great sight to see the Giant of the Jungle in the desert!

For the first time we saw other people, camping next to the river. As the sun was setting we approached a "Road Block"! It was a "Check Point Charlie" where you had to pay for the privilege of traveling in this isolated area of Damaraland. The permit was issued from Palmwag. I can not recall the exact amount, but I can remember that it was a bit stiff for my liking. But we paid and they opened the gate.

We arrived at Sesfontein well after sunset and found a very pleasant owner, a young man from up north. He told us that we could camp wherever we wanted, can even overnight in one of the huts at the campsite if we wanted to. At R220 for three, including dinner and breakfast the following morning, it was very reasonable. The hospitality was wonderful and the night on the cold concrete "mattress" was fine.

Day 15: 10th July
Sesfontein to Twyfelfontein
We filled the tanks of the Land Rover, although there was still enough diesel on the roof of the Land Rover. I would much rather carry too much fuel than get stuck without.

The road to Twyfelfontein is boring, white and broad. We passed several signs of camping sites. We stopped briefly at Palmwag but the reception there was so bad that we quickly moved on. Eventually we arrived at Twyfelfontein. As you turn off from the main road D2612 to D3214 there is a community campsite with huge thorn trees for shade. At the turn-off to Twyfelfontein underneath some great Ana trees is a wonderful camping site.

It was great to see all the old rock engravings at Twyfelfontein done by people still unknown to us. The guide was well informed and the hike through the rock engravings was wonderful. From Twyfelfontein we went to Burnt Mountains, a short drive. One passes the Organ Pipes on the left along the road.

There is a 4x4 road from Burnt Mountain but as I did not have it on my map we followed the main road D2612 & D2319 to Brandberg and the famous Boesman painting "The White Lady". Unfortunately time was against us as we reached the turnoff to Brandberg at 17:00. Peter was reading the guide book on our way to Brandberg and he then asked if we could go to Messum Crater instead. So, we took the D2342 but never saw any sign of a turnoff to the crater shortly after the Messum river" as the guide book described the route. We saw a different angle of the majestic Brandberg and plenty Welwitchias on our way. The road ended at a T- junction. The left turn takes one to Cape Cross and right, to Brandberg West Tin Mine. For no particular reason we decided to take the right turn and shortly came across a road sign "Camp Site 10km". Well, with our experience of Purros we did not get all excited about the distance but was excited to learn that there is a campsite ahead as the sun was setting.

For the first time we South Africans were regarded the same as the Namibians, regarding camping fees. A sign at the gate informed us that we had reached the camp of ‘Save the Rhino Foundation’ and had two sets of fees, one for locals (including South Africans) and one for foreigners. The campsite was great and a young tamed Warthog entertained us. We met Johannes, one of the wardens of the reserve, who entertained us to song and guitar playing at our campsite around the fire. He told us that he would be our guide the next day to search for the Black Rhinos in Dorros Crater. I've heard and read about the Dorros Crater but had no idea where it was situated as I could not find a map beforehand. We had a good night’s sleep.

Day 16: 11th July
Dorros Crater to Swakopmund via Henties Bay
We started out on the rocky road to Dorros Crater very early. Johannes told me that the direct road from Save the Rhino Camp to Twyfelfontein is about 75km. The road we took from Twyfelfontein to the camp was 320km!! It was a great pity that I had not had a map of Dorros Crater but the trip around the area was interesting. We did not spot any Rhino and by midday we were back at the camp. Johannes informed me that I could follow the Ugab River to the main Henties - Cape Cross road, as it is shorter. I chose to take the gravel road instead as I expected the road in the riverbed to be sandy and progress slow. If I had had more time I would have taken the river.

We arrived at Henties Bay well after dark, bought some cold drink at the garage and continued our journey to Swakopmund. We managed to find a bungalow at the Municipal Rest Camp where we planned to stay for two days. It was great to take a hot shower and to sleep on a comfortable bed.

Day 17: 12th July
Swakopmund and Walvis Bay
It was a misty morning, so typical of Swakopmund but we took some time to visit the town and enjoyed lunch at a cafe. We paid a visit to the local Museum, which was very interesting. The Land Rover battled to start and once again I had to use the spare battery for the fridge, to start the engine. I needed time to investigate when the engine was cold or risk burning myself.

We went to Walvis Bay to look for Pelicans and Flamingoes and found the latter. Walvis Bay is a smelly coastal town and we hurried on to Dune 7, outside Walvis Bay, one of the higher dunes of Namibia. The boys enjoyed themselves on the dunes while I tried to catch up on the news from the newspaper bought in town.

We bought a permit to visit the Namib National Park but the day was too short; we would have to use it the next day. I intended sorting out the electrical problem of the Land Rover while the fire was forming coals for the braai when a German tourist approached me for a conversation. He was complaining about the high cost of accommodation charged in Namibia although food was priced reasonably. Reception at the National Parks offices and at Tourist Information bureaus was not very friendly. One could find more information from people on the street or having discussions with other travelers. I had very little contact with the official Namibian Tourist Industry other than the rude owner at Palmwag.

The coals were ready as the German said goodnight and I still had to cook the meal. The Land Rover problem had to wait for the morning.

Day 17: 12th July
Swakopmund to Gobabis via Windhoek and ? Pass
After we had packed the Land Rover the boys wanted to take a drive on the Quads (4x4 bikes) and I decided to treat them. It was a costly treat but it gave them great pleasure and allowed me time to search for the nagging electrical problem. The engine was cold enough and I eventually found what I hoped was the problem - a loose connection at the alternator.

We visited the Namib Park, Swakop River Basin and the Welwitchia Valley and all the desert leeches of various colours on our way to Windhoek on the C28. The road, like most of the gravel roads in Namibia, was in good condition. The pass was steep and rocky but the scenery was great. It's better to go over the pass from Windhoek to Swakop than Swakopmund to Windhoek as the view of the country is so much greater than going uphill.

Eventually the dark Namibian night sky was lit with the orange street lights of Windhoek as we pulled up in front of the local Kentucky FC for a take away dinner. We visited one of the local garages to fill up the Land Rover and took the road towards Gobabis, where we hoped to overnight or even if the border were still open to cross and sleep in Botswana.

At a small intersection we pulled off to enjoy our dinner. After dinner the boys prepared their beds inside for the long drive to Gobabis and we pulled away. Over a small hill the lights of the International airport was visible and and we saw the lights been switched off for the night, the end of a day of the airport. Just then the Land Rover engine made some strange noises and died! I've tried to restart but the engine was dead. WHAT NOW.

It was a Sunday evening and most of the traffic was away from Windhoek and it was late. I've decided to rather sleep inside till the next morning than try to find a lift to Windhoek and to find a tow truck and pay after hours rates.

Day 18: 13th July
Windhoek International Airport to Windhoek to Gobabis
It was not a pleasant night inside the Land Rover and as the sun started to rise, I gave my last instructions to the boys as I started my walking to the airport to phone for help. About 200 meters from the stranded Land Rover, a friendly man gave me a lift to the airport but there were no activity so early in the morning. I couldn't phone because I had no Namibian money and had to wait till 08:30 for a shop to open.

I've phoned BMW Windhoek and they arranged to sent out a tow truck and a car to pickup the boys. I've waited two hours for the tow truck and eventually an old Bedford made it's appearance. The managed to load the Landy on the back and off we went to Windhoek. We arrived at the BMW workshop at 12:00 and they immediately started to work on the Land Rover. A broken timing belt and broken rocker arm.

Just after 17:00 and a heavy bill we left Windhoek again. The Land Rover was still under guarantee but I didn't had my logbook with me and their computer line to Cape Town was down as well. They also could not do the work properly because they did not had all the necessary parts, so the timing belt and rocker arm was just repaired.

We spent our last Namibian money at the garage in Gobabis were a man informed me that it's 108 km to the border and the border closes at 23:00, I better hurry!

The border at Namibia close to Gobabis, is renamed to Trans Kalahari and the people were very friendly, even 5 mins before closing! Namibia and Botswana border posts are brand new and both made the crossing easy. 100 Kilometers after the border, I've pulled off into the bush and setup camp for the night. It was a long and tiresome day.

Day 19: 14th July
Somewhere in Botswana to Roodepoort via Kang
After a good breakfast we were on the road again. Saw plenty Ostriches and as you come closer to villages donkeys and goats. But the road was in a good condition as we pulled into Kang to refill the Land Rover and to stretch our legs. The country side is beautiful but flat, very flat!
The road after Kang for about 60km is very bumpy but we made good time and crossed the South African border at Lobatse at 17:00 and arrived at home just after 23:00.

19 Days and 7500 km later we were very happy to be back at home. It was a very quick holiday, a great deal of driving but it was worth it. Next time we will plan our journeys to the places we want to return and spent more time at those places to explore.